We’ve just learned what the latest batch of Only Watch lots look like, and there are actually some really charming special pieces to get excited about. In scanning the images of all the lots, the replica watch that obtained my attention most was the fake Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2020. The modern Breguet Type XX range is indeed a historically oriented pilot’s watch line encouraged by military watches made in accordance with specifications set forth by the French Ministry of Defense back in 1954. According to Breguet, the military model is known as the model 20, while the civilian range, which is for sale and will continue to be sold, watch enthusiasts, was designated as the XX model.
The particular piece that we have here today is a reissue of a Type 20 flyback chronograph from the 1950s that features a small-seconds display and a 30-minute counter. Not only are the proportions of the watch, with its 38.3mm case, right, but the watch also features a bi-directional coin-edge bezel in accordance with how things were done with the early Type 20 military executions. The big onion crown is likewise in the style of an early Type 20 military piece. The dial is a soft bronze color with pillowy lume forming the Arabic numerals used to mark the hours. Perhaps the coolest thing about this watch is its internal movement, which is a great, historic retrofitting of the hand-wound Valjoux wheel chronograph. The use of flyback motion in type 20 was chosen to enable fast timing of continuous events such as take-off sequences.
If you turn the replica watches over, you see that it has a closed back that is engraved “Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2020 Pièce Unique.” The strap comes in a soft-looking brown calfskin execution that is perfectly matched to the dial. We don’t have a picture of this one-of-a-kind watch’s presentation box, but we’re told that it will have the shape of an airplane’s wing.
I think this is probably the most beautiful watch ever released, although it’s certainly a subjective question. Upon opening the email containing these images, I had a kind of sad feeling that there is only going to be one of these guys and that it’s not a production piece. Breguet Type XXs now use automatic movements, and we’ve seen progress of the line in the form of the Type XXI and Type XXII, a chronograph whose escapement beat at 72,000 vph.
This great replica piece takes the Type 20 back to its origins. While one can surely appreciate the modern convenience of the automatic timing mechanism, as seen today in the standard XXs, Valjoux cal.235, the owner of this unique part will get something special. I’d like the replica watch to be as historically accurate as possible, but I’d also like it to come with an optional second exhibition case that allows the owner to admire this vintage sports watch from time to time.