The 2025 collection proved no exception. Seeing the novelties together in Geneva offered a rare chance to appreciate just how diverse the brand’s latest creations are. After much discussion – and more than a little friendly debate – we narrowed the field to five releases that capture the essence of this year’s Rolex vision.
We focused on individual references rather than entire model families. That meant choosing a specific size and dial combination for each pick, making the task more difficult but also more rewarding. Here are the five pieces that stood out most.
Oyster Perpetual 36, Ref. 126000-0015
The Oyster Perpetual has always been Rolex’s most unpretentious expression of watchmaking excellence, and in 2025 the 36mm variant received a dial that elevates its understated charm. The new medium-blue lacquer finish is neither too light nor too dark, striking a balance between vibrancy and depth. In person, the color shifts subtly with the light, revealing a richness that photographs can’t quite capture.
Beneath the surface beats the calibre 3230, a self-winding movement with a 70-hour power reserve and fake Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer precision of ±2 seconds per day. The familiar Oyster case, measuring 11.5mm thick and 44mm lug-to-lug, pairs perfectly with the brand’s three-link Oyster bracelet for all-day comfort. At €6,400, this reference is arguably the most refined entry point into the world of Rolex – a watch that works as effortlessly with a suit as it does with a T-shirt.
Cosmograph Daytona, Ref. 126518LN-0014
The Daytona has been a cultural icon for decades, yet Rolex still finds ways to surprise. This year, the most arresting version pairs a yellow-gold case with a turquoise-lacquered dial – a color that recalls rare early-2000s white gold Daytonas, yet feels thoroughly contemporary. Black sub-dials, a matching Cerachrom bezel, and the supple Oysterflex bracelet temper the dial’s exuberance, giving the watch an unexpected sophistication.
Measuring 40mm across and 11.9mm thick, the watch houses the calibre 4131 with a 72-hour power reserve. Priced at €37,700, this Daytona blends boldness and refinement in a way that’s difficult to forget. Even those indifferent to modern Daytonas may find themselves tempted.
Land-Dweller 36, Ref. 127234-0001
The Land-Dweller marks Rolex’s first entirely new non-dress line since the Sky-Dweller in 2012, and the 36mm version in stainless steel with a white gold bezel is the standout. Its design subtly echoes the Oysterquartz aesthetic, while the proportions deliver a timeless wrist presence.
The star here is the new calibre 7135 – a high-beat automatic running at 36,000 vph with a 66-hour power reserve and Rolex’s Dynapulse escapement in silicon and ceramic. A sapphire display back reveals the movement’s modern architecture, a rarity for the brand. At €14,550, it’s a compelling blend of heritage cues and cutting-edge mechanics.
Rolex 1908, Ref. 52508-0008
Sometimes, a small change transforms a watch completely. For the 1908, that change was the addition of the “Settimo” bracelet. Crafted in full yellow gold with vintage-style curved end links, its seven-row construction brings a tactile elegance to a model already rich in classical details.
The 39mm case remains slim at 9.5mm, with a coin-edge bezel and a choice of black or white dial. Inside, the calibre 7140 offers small seconds at 6 o’clock and 66 hours of reserve. At €36,200, this 1908 isn’t just another gold dress watch – it’s a modern heirloom built to be worn daily.
GMT-Master II “Tiger Iron,” Ref. 126715CHNR-0002
Few Rolex dials divide opinion like this one. The “Tiger Iron” combines tiger eye, red jasper, and hematite, producing a unique marbled pattern in shades of grey, yellow, and red. No two dials are alike. Paired with Everose gold, a black-and-brown Cerachrom bezel, and an Oyster bracelet, it’s a GMT-Master II unlike any before it.
Inside is the calibre 3285, delivering 70 hours of power reserve and the reliability expected from Rolex’s travel-ready icon. At €51,250, it is the most expensive watch on our list, but also the most distinctive – a fusion of gem-like artistry and technical mastery.
Choosing these five meant leaving out other strong contenders, from the new olive-green replica Rolex Day-Date to several striking Oyster Perpetual dials. Yet these selections reveal the breadth of Rolex’s 2025 output: classic steel, exuberant color, groundbreaking mechanics, vintage-inspired elegance, and daring materials. If this year proves anything, it’s that Rolex still knows how to surprise – and that the most compelling releases are as much about emotion as engineering.